Piton Placement (Cairn) – Where & When

TL;DR

Pitons reduce consequence, not difficulty. Place them before commitment points.

4 core rules

1. Place before high‑consequence sections
2. Create real reset points
3. Place early, not late
4. Don’t use protection to patch bad pacing

Decision tree (5 questions)

• Is the next move a commitment?
• Is the fall cost high?
• Do you have stamina margin?
• Do you have a safe reset?
• Have you failed twice here?

If yes to 2+ → place a piton.

Common mistakes

• “I placed one so I’m safe” (false)
• Dense placements without reducing consequence
• Red‑zone placement after failure

Recommended tools

• Piton Budget
• Fall Risk Check
• Read the Wall

Disclaimer

Fan‑made Cairn guide & tools site. Not affiliated.