Light vs Heavy Gear Strategy

Choosing between mobility and preparation in Cairn.
Feb 2, 2026

The Trade-off

In Cairn, weight is not just a number—it modifies physics.

Light Gear (Speed & Agility)

Philosophy: "If I don't fall, I don't need protection."

  • Pros:
    • Stamina Efficiency: Each move costs less energy.
    • Reach: Easier to make dynamic moves / lunges.
    • Speed: Faster climbing animation.
  • Cons:
    • High Risk: Few pitons = long falls.
    • Low Resources: Less food/water means you must find loot on the wall or finish quickly.
  • Best For: Speedruns, familiar routes, "Redpoint" attempts.

Heavy Gear (Safety & Siege)

Philosophy: "Slow is smooth, smooth is fast."

  • Pros:
    • Checkpoints: Many pitons allow frequent saving.
    • Recovery: Abundant food/bivouac gear allows recovery from mistakes.
    • Tools: Can carry specific tools (Windmill, Gloves) for specific hazards.
  • Cons:
    • Stamina Drain: Passive drain is higher; moves cost more.
    • Limited Movement: Some dynamic moves become impossible or highly risky.
  • Best For: First ascents (On-sight), long expeditions, bad weather.

Decision Matrix

ConditionGo LightGo Heavy
Route KnowledgeKnownUnknown
WeatherClearVariable/Storm
Crux DifficultyHigh (Need agility)Moderate (Endurance)
Player SkillExpertLearning

Recommendation

Start Heavy. As a beginner, the punishment for mistakes (falling to the bottom) is worse than the difficulty of climbing with weight. Shed gear only when you know exactly what you don't need.